41 Rivington Street, London · Open Tue–Sat until late

Loud Rooms, Long Nights

Rituals

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Tomas Herd

Loud Rooms, Long Nights

Why we built the room around the sound, not the other way round.

Built around the sound

Most restaurants treat noise as a problem to absorb. We designed the room to make it. Hard surfaces, a low ceiling over the bar, no soft furnishing anywhere near the pass. At full capacity the room runs at about eighty-four decibels, which is roughly a busy bar.

The trade

You cannot have a quiet, intimate dinner here. That is a real cost and we accept it. What you get instead is a room where nobody feels watched, where a table of two can argue and a table of eight can shout, and where the kitchen noise is part of the music rather than an intrusion.

The last table leaves around two. The room is still loud at one-forty-five.

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